Pacific Northwest to Southern Mexico

The trip down to Oaxaca - by Cambell Forbes

Botanical Glossary - Home

Leave Vancouver City on December 02, 2002: Taking highway 99 South through the Peace Arch Crossing.

The guard at the booth started by asking my travel companion and I all of the normal questions like: "Where are you headed? How long do you plan on staying? Where are you from?"

The guard continued through the initial questioning, and, with our pass ports, we were given a yellow/orange slip of paper to show to the inspector and agriculture clerk. Things went slow, but smooth and were back on the road in no time.

We followed Interstate 5 through Washington and made it to Gettings Creek rest area (South of Eugene Oregon) by 9:30 PM, where we parked the van for the remainder of the night. The rest area wasn't the greatest of choices for a place to try sleeping for awhile, as the coming and going of transport trucks kept us awake (even with ear plugs) for most of the time. I would not recommend rest areas unless there is no where else to stay. (In this case, the fog was so thick around the Interstate, it became dangerous to continue any longer.)

December 03 2002 we leave Gettings Creek rest area (at 6:15 AM), Cold and foggy we traveled through Oregon along the mountain highway still on Interstate 5 towards Grants Pass. No sign of snow or rain, but the fog has deposited dew on all plant life and the cold air has frozen everything into ice coated plants and surfaces (the road wasn't slippery, even though the potential was there because the traffic had burned off the frost and made the pavement wet.)

Our first rest for the day was in Redding California where I photographed two varieties of Quercus, and a bushy variety of Arbutus Menziesii with berries.

Next opportunity to photograph took place by Sacramento California, still along I-5, where I saw a Tulip tree in the later stages of reproduction. Bright red seeds in the pods, still on the tree.

At Sacramento California, we veered from I-5 to highway 99, stopping at about 9 :00 PM to spend the night in Stockton California. The best place on the spur of the moment, was a K-Mart shopping center parking lot at Crestwood Avenue and Northgate road. Although fairly cold, a comfortable sleep was gleaned, except for the movement of trucks and cars in the parking lot, and the sounds of the vacuum vehicle cleaning the parking lot (which kept me awake, even with ear plugs.)

December 04 2002 fog still persisting, (leaving at 6:00 AM) but not bad enough to stop driving. Madera California by 8: 00 AM. There are lots of things to look at as we go by at a 55 mile an hour clip: Eucalyptus trees, tumbleweeds, and Palm trees are in good supply. Fresno has a lot of raisin grapes in various stages of harvest and growth.

At Bakersfield, we took highway 58 east from highway 99 we had been traveling on. Lots of wind in that area, Mohave has lots of Joshua trees. Stopping in a small rest area near Boron California I made images of the Borax mine and refinery off in the distance, plus some exciting Joshua trees, Oak trees and sage, (plus other trees that have to be identified). Leaving by 2:45 PM in the heat of the day, but well rested after hot soup and munchies made in the van.

At Four Corners California, we changed highways again; from route 58 to 395 south as far as Hesperia where we picked up I-15 to I-215 south through San Bernardino and connected with Interstate 10 East.

At Beaumont California we spent the night in another K-mart parking lot, (three blocks from a train track route and one block further, the interstate.) Once again, the vacuum truck woke us up, plus the sounds of the highway and trains traveling through. Not much sleep again.

December 05, 2002 we headed for the Volkswagen repair shop to do some work on the ignition assembly, (I had to push start the van after turning off the motor for a break.) Dick's VW Foreign and Domestic repair shop made a fast change on the ignition assembly, and we were on the road by 2:00 PM. In the mean time, while the van was getting repaired, I did some plant photographing... Palm trees, Prickley Pear, and several varieties of trees and vines growing on side streets and alleys.

Blyth California next break, then along I-10 to highway 85 south to avoid Phoenix Arizona. We picked up I-8 at Gila Bend Arizona and followed it to Eloy Arizona on I-10, to Narana California (10 PM or thereabout) where we stayed in a vacant lot beside a Chevron gas station, (the proprietor told us it was okay fine to do so) away from transport trucks and noisy vacuums. We had tried a spot earlier by a Circle K truck stop which turned out to be more noise than quiet, which is why we went on to the gas station. Everything in the area is geared towards heavy trucks traveling, not to the weary traveler on the cheap seat ride.

December 06 2002 we hit the road by 7:00 AM after a fairly good nights sleep. Lots of Saguaro cactus to look at as we traveled along the interstate, (mostly on the hills in the distance) cotton fields were in various stages of harvest, Prickley pear cactus, chule cactus, barrel cactus, yucca and varieties of sage. Through the mountains by Benson Arizona, the vegetation changed to more yucca plants, sage, and Prickley pear.

We stopped for awhile for a breather at Texas Canyon rest area, where Cochise and Geronimo used to hang out (before the rest area was built) to photograph several varieties of sage, Quercus, Prickley pear, aloe, and varieties of yucca. The rock formations there are really quite magical, ever changing with the passage of the sun, creating shadows and light to color natures scenic beauty.

Four miles south east at council rocks, an Apache peace treaty with Cochise was ratified (near dragon springs, October 12, 1872). The feeling is awesome, with the same, untouched, rugged beauty that existed back in the time of the treaty.

At 11:20 we hit the road once more to travel along I-10 towards Wilcox, and on to Sanford where Yucca forests make the scenes worth viewing. I saw a few Yucca Palms at about 15 - 20 feet tall, tallest I have seen on the trip so far.

The Eloncillo mountains west of Lordsburg New Mexico are beautiful, and a variety of Prickley pear with purple and pink leaves, plus Yucca trees are the things to watch for when traveling through. El Paso Texas by 4:45 PM... just in time for rush hour traffic - stop and go for at least 3/4 hour. Sunset was a sight to behold, with cloud formations looking like a master painters wild canvas.

We stayed in a Wall Mart parking lot in Fort Stockton Texas, which turned out to be the quietist, most comfortable night stop so far. Several other people had the same idea, and the fringe parking area looked like a wagon train corral with eight huge motor homes. It felt like we were the riffraff , invading a richman's convention (in our VW van).

December 07 2002 on the road again by 7:50 AM, lots more things to see with a couple varieties of Yucca, two varieties of Prickley pear, an antler shaped cactus, grasses, grazing cattle and a deer grazing near the cattle. Lots of wind mill generators on the mesas, oil derricks vine yards, turning to tumble weeds by Bakersfield along I-10.

Junction Texas has cedar shrub, oak trees, grasses hay farms, goats, cows and more Prickley pear cactus. At San Antonio Texas, we hooked up with I-37 south towards Corpus Christie. We made Oakville Texas by 4:00 PM, then on to Sinton, where we took highway 77 south, where we finally stayed in a Motel 66 at Kingsville Texas. That's another noisy place that caters to truck drivers. At 5 AM we were awakened to the sound of revving transport trucks. (For 47.00 American currency, I thought it wasn't worth it for the sleep, however, the shower was really nice to have, to was all of the road grime off.

December 08, 2002 checked out by 9:30 AM, continuing along highway 77 south through Raymondville Texas. We made Brownsville Texas by noon, which put us through the Mexican boarder a couple of hours later. The border crossing is an interesting affair, passport viewing, tourist visa signing and payment, lots of insurance paperwork (not for the impatient person) and check ups. All-in-all, a very confusing, complex process if you are like me and never had to deal with boarder crossing on that level.

Mexico is in the state of celebration these days leading up to Christmas, so there are lots of parades and pilgrimages along city streets and highways. Matamoros was very stressful to get through, signs are not clear, if posted at all (for cities south). It is advisable to carry several maps with you when driving through Mexico. Road signs and map routes change and become other highway numbers (it is also good to have a map that shows the smaller villages, because smaller villages are sometimes posted instead of main cities).

We took highway 4 west from Brownsville which becomes international blvd., once we crossed to Matamoros and got through customs, we traveled along highway 101 to Lacom, where we picked up highway 180 (the junction is by a Pemex gas station). Further South to Soto la Marina we traveled, passing through the first rain we had see through the whole journey (it rained from Corpus Cristie area, all the way to San Fernando Mexico).

WE parked next to the Centro park in the city of Soto la Marina, arriving by nightfall, parking and sitting with the windows down, sipping cervesa and watching the townspeople go by. It is like stepping into a whole different world, people there are very basic, not motivated by time (I watched several younger people leaning against a car, doing nothing but watching the world go by). I don't think that is a popular mode of entertainment in Canada, specially in the larger cities where everything is hustle and move fast.

We had no problems camping in the van that night, people left us alone once every one got used to us being there. WE went for a walk around the town, stopping here and there at street vendors to buy cobs of corn broiled over BBQ roasting spits, or boiled to perfection. The corn cobs are good with Ceso, chille and salt. The Police station/municipal office had free washrooms to clean up in (warning, be prepared to have along your own toilet paper, as sometimes the only thing available is the day old newspaper).

December 09 2002 We got on the road along highway 180 to Tempeco, where we picked up our first toll booth, (changing to highway 80) where we stopped for a rest. I found a Legume species tree with seed pods on them at least 24" long.

We picked up highway 180 again towards Tuxpan, trying to make Tajin by afternoon. We made Tajin by 4:00 PM, after many small villages slowed us down with Topes (speed bumps designed to keep you guessing and going slow)

Even though the Ruins and museum closed at 5:00 PM, we were charged full price (35 pesos each), but I was glad to see that when we overstayed by an hour, no one said anything. What a place of energy and beauty...!! I have seen many ruins in Mexico and USA (Monte Alban to Mesa Verde) and never seen the style of buildings like at Tajin.

That evening, after we visited the ruins, we went into the nearby village of Taljin. We started to park along the back streets of the village, when one of the citizens came out to greet us (every one is friendly there, making us feel welcome) and told us that parking in the streets would be a bad idea with local traffic traveling through, and would we like to park on their land for the night... off the streets, in a very quiet, comfy yard, with showers and toilet. People in Mexico are some of the warmest I have ever seen. (It is also nice to have along some small gifts to give away, something like T-shirts or calendars with Canadian or American logos or wording on. The families there are very local, meaning that they almost never leave their village through out life, so, gifts from other parts of the country are appreciated.)

December 10, 2002 We were up and had coffee and breakfast by 7:00 AM, said our good-byes to our new friends and on the road. Papantla was a nightmare to get out of, signage was nonexistent, so we had to guess at which roads to take through the city. We ended up being wrong and had to backtrack, eventually finding our way to the highway towards Vera Cruz.

Through Teziutlan along highway 129 is beach area. Nice stuff, but doesn't compare with the West Coast (Pacifico ocean) for ocean beauty, or tourist/back country ruggedness. At Tlapacoyan we picked up highway 131 towards Altotonga and Perote. Lots of Banana crops along the way, the jungle has been cut back and cash crops have been inserted. Be prepared for rough roads, as the local communities don't have money to upkeep highway surfaces.

Just North of Atzalan the bridge has been washed out, keeping away large transport trucks and detouring cars and vans to a dirt road (muddy at the time) skirting a valley (with a few hundred foot drop off the one-lane track. Lots of interesting plant life there, maiden hair ferns and fern trees still surviving from the dawn of time.

The local people have come out to mingle with the workers trying to restore the bridge; they stand there with cups in hand begging for hand outs.

Moving along the way to Perote on highway 140, then back to highway 131 through Zoatzingo we stopped for a break after driving through the fog (mountain pass, probably a low cloud) lots of cold stuff to see, in interesting species of Pine, corn fields and turkeys gobbling. Perote has much volcanic signs, like mountains and lava flow hills. Lots of desert like plants to look at, including Yucca and Prickley pear.

Near Acatzingo we picked up the highway 190 south that leads to Oaxaca. We again stopped along the way to photograph the hills and mountains that were alive with cactus forest. Stunning beauty, but hard to find a place to pull off the road and park ( no view point overlooks like USA and Canada highways).

We continued through the latter afternoon and into the night so we would make Oaxaca by 8:00 PM.

ƒ